The Prairie Dal Protocol
At Br. Bryant’s Prairie Dals, I take Dalmatian health seriously—it ain’t just about good looks; it’s about strong, thriving dogs. That’s why I stick to responsible breeding, solid nutrition, and proactive vet care. The Prairie Dal Protocol is tailored to Dalmatians, but can also be used with sighthounds like Greyhounds and Whippets and other white-coated dogs such as the Pekingese or Great Pyrenees. It covers BAER, CAER, and PennHip testing, following breed standards. Dalmatians need special diets, so I keep mine on a low-purine plan and run routine screenings for breed-specific concerns. For vet care, I trust Double J Animal Hospital or an AAHA-accredited vet who knows Dals inside and out. Now, when it comes to finances, I live by Dave Ramsey’s principles—I steer clear of most insurance plans. But I’ll tell you straight: Dalmatians can rack up vet bills. That’s why pet insurance makes sense in this case. If you go that route, I recommend Pets Best—they’ve got solid customer reviews and even labor union backing.
Common Health Problems in Dalmatians
Urinary Stones
Some Dals have a hard time breaking down purines, which can lead to urate crystals or stones in their urine. That ain't something to mess with—it can get real painful, real fast. Best way to avoid trouble? Keep them off high-purine foods like liver, brewer’s yeast, and beef. Watch for signs like dribbling urine or acting like they need to go but just can’t. Catching it early is key. A routine urinalysis helps, but make sure you’re using a fresh, non-refrigerated sample so the vet gets a clear look at any sediment or crystals. To keep them healthy, stick to a low-purine diet, keep fresh and distilled water handy, and make sure they’re peeing plenty. Do that, and you’re giving your Dal the best shot at staying stone-free.
CSD
Some Dals struggle with copper buildup in their liver, and if it ain't caught early, it can lead to serious damage over time. Problem is, it’s hard to spot until it’s already doing harm—but if you catch it in time, a Dal can still live a long, good life with the right diet and meds. Watch for signs like losing weight, acting tired all the time, throwing up, drinking more than usual, or yellowing in the eyes and gums (jaundice). The best way to stay ahead of it is regular bloodwork—at 12, 18, and 24 months, then once a year after that—with a close eye on ALT levels. A liver biopsy is the only way to know for sure, but spotting symptoms early gives you a real shot at managing it before it gets bad.
Kidney Disease
This can hit a Dal anytime, slow or all at once. Watch for signs like drinking more than usual, losing weight, acting real tired, throwing up, or their coat looking rough. If it gets real bad, you might see dehydration, easy bruising, or barely any pee. Catching it early is key. That means yearly urine tests and full bloodwork to keep an eye on CREAT, BUN, and PHOS levels—so if something starts slipping, you can jump on it quick.
Diet of a Dalmatian
Dals don’t need low protein—just low purines to keep their urine right. Steer clear of beef, liver, herring, salmon, and duck since they’re loaded with purines. Best bet? Check with your breeder for good food choices like Purina ONE or Purina PRO Lamb & Rice. Always keep fresh distilled water out and soak their food 10-15 minutes before feeding—helps with digestion and keeps them hydrated.
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Recommended Dog Foods for a Dalmatian:
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Purina Pro Complete Essentials
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Natural Balance Healthy Skin
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Hill's Science Diet UD (with caution)
*Brands such as Pedigree, Iams, Eukanuba, and Royal Canin are manufactured by Mars Inc. which has been subject to recalls and lawsuits.
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Dalmatian-Safe Treats:
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Purina Beggin' Fun-Size
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AKC Chewy Chews Chicken-Flavored
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Himalayan Pet Supply Pet Supply Yaky Churro Cheese Flavored
Preventative Care
Dals need checkups twice a year with an AAHA-accredited vet or one who knows the breed—Double J Animal Hospital is the go-to for Br. Bryant's Prairie Dals. Routine care means annual bloodwork, fecal test and urinalysis to catch issues early, plus annual heartworm tests and parasite prevention (every 45 Days between March and October in New Mexico). Use titers and stick to core vaccines or only what’s needed for local risks—keeps them healthier, longer.
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AAHA-Accredited Vets in Hobbs Area:
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Double J Animal Hospital (Hobbs)
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Great Plains Veterinary Clinic (Hobbs)
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Country Club Animal Hospital (Roswell)
​*Avoid VCA and Banfield Pet Hospitals
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Recommended Parasite Prevention:
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Frontline Plus for Flea/Tick once a year then every 45 days AS NEEDED ($40 on Chewy)
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Interceptor for Heartworms every 45 days between March and October ($65 on Chewy)
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Panacur C for Deworming once a year with a 3-week booster for show dogs and therapy dogs ($30 on Chewy) (You need 1g/10lbs.)
*All parasite prevention should be administered 15 days apart.
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Costs of Preventative Procedures at Double J:
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Bloodwork: $175
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Fecal Test: $25
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Heartworm Test: $70
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Urinalysis: $117
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Wellness Exam: $42
Jean Dodds Vaccination Protocol
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Titers
A titer test’s just a little blood draw to see if your pup still has the antibodies to hold off the big bad stuff like Distemper, Bordetella, and Rabies. Those core shots give what we call sterilizing immunity, meaning once your dog tests positive, they’re usually set for years without having to get vaccinated again. For Dals—and really any fur family—titer testing keeps them strong, keeps them safe, and saves them from getting poked more than they need.
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Bordetella
Bordetella, that kennel cough vaccine, gets handed out a lot more than it needs to be. Truth is, immunity from it doesn’t last like the core vaccines, and for many dogs, constant boosters do more harm than good. That’s why Jean Dodds recommends titer testing whenever possible—it shows if your pup’s still got antibodies hanging around, so you don’t give a shot they don’t need. If your dog’s fixing to be in a high-risk spot—like boarding, daycare, or a show—you can give the vaccine three days before exposure if the titer says they ain’t covered. That way, you’re keeping them safe from kennel cough without overloading their system or spending money on shots that ain’t working full-time anyway.
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Rabies
Dr. Jean Dodds, she’s one of the top vet researchers out there, and she’s real clear: the best way to do rabies is with the three-year, mercury-free vaccine. That version doesn’t have thimerosal in it, so it’s easier on the immune system while still giving full, legal protection against rabies. Science shows it holds up just as strong as the regular kind, but without pushing extra toxins on a pup, especially breeds like Dalmatians that can be a little more sensitive. Bottom line, you meet the law, you keep your dog safe, and you don’t put more weight on their body than they need. Double J Animal Hospital only offers the 1-year vaccine; however, Great Plains Vet offers the 3-year mercury-free vaccine for $75.
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Rattlesnake Vaccine
The rattlesnake vaccine also gets tossed around a lot, but here’s the real deal—it doesn’t protect against all snakes and it’s not a substitute for careful management. Dogs can still get bit, and the reaction can still be serious, so it ain’t a magic shield. The better approach, vets and trainers like Ken Ramirez from the Karen Pryor Dog Academy or folks at Confident Canines will tell you, is positive reinforcement snake-aversion training. This method teaches your pup to naturally avoid snakes before a bite ever happens, keeping them safer and giving you peace of mind without relying on a shot that only works part of the time. For Dalmatians and other curious breeds, it’s smarter to train them than just vaccinate them.